Story time: That one time I survived an Earthquake! (Part 2)
Let me tell you this for free… earthquakes that shake you off the ground (when you’re already on the ground), cuts your phone signal, cuts the electricity, leaves you in the pitch black and causes things to fall around you all in a split second is NOT fun! I know you (normal people) didn’t think it would be, but for anyone who ever thought about what a big quake felt like pay attention now: It’s nuts! The insanity of the ground shaking under you and the uncertainty of how long it will last or if another will hit takes the Natural-history-museum fun out of it (if you’ve been to London and you’ve never been to the Tokyo Earthquake replica then shame on you!).
I think in hindsight, I laughed and joked about the situation because it wasn’t something I was mentally prepared for and if I deeped how scary it was, I would probably cry. It’s the second you realise how powerful mother nature is that you realise you’re just a tiny speck on this earth. It’s like you're on a rollercoaster you never signed up to but you also don’t know where the end is or if there’s another surprise around the corner. It’s like a game, except it’s real and it’s not fun at all. Never in my life had I imagined myself to be in such a situation and never in my life was I so scared about what might happen to me.
The earthquake had hit and it hit hard! People were screaming and crying and there was no time to think twice and no-one to rely on. I was on my own, on the other side of the world and in pitch black trying to work out what to do next. You don’t get prepared for these situations living in the UK. Earthquakes (especially of this magnitude) don’t happen, and apart from the basics of “stand under door frames” and “hide under tables” (none of which would be any use to me at the time), I didn’t know much at all about how to prepare for this. Upon reflection, I have been in a few earthquakes before but nothing that would make me even notice it (magnitude 4 and under I can generally sleep through).
After my interaction with the musician, I watched him cycle into the darkness whilst I thought about which direction was best for me. Do I go toward the buildings and increase my risk of harm should another earthquake hit or do I stay where I am but no-one knows that I’m here? There was no time to stress or get scared… that would only make the situation worse and I had no control over what was happening. The best thing I could do at that moment was to stay as calm as possible and think of logistical/practical things I could do. There was no time to act on fear. What was my next move going to be?
There was no time to stress or get scared… that would only make the situation worse and I had no control of what was happening
I decided to keep on cycling. Still, people were running in all different directions and it was impossible to tell who knew the island and who was just running in panic (clue: the majority of people - which didn’t help). I saw a young family of four who ran in my direction: A mother and husband and their two sons. I asked them where they were going in hope that they would understand English and help. They were German but the mother spoke English and told me, between panicked breaths, that they were running to the mountain and I was welcome to join. I declined since she was guessing like me and I still had it stuck in my head that the mountain that everyone was talking about was the same place these rocks were falling. Since I hadn't explored the island enough, the last thing that sounded sensible to me was rocks falling on me whilst I tried to walk to safety. I’m sorry that’s a no from me!
I kept cycling towards my apartment until I found a large group of people outside one of the biggest hotels on the island. I knew this location was less earthquake friendly from where I was but they had more resources and at least there would be more of us instead of me alone. Less than two mins after getting off my bike a mini earthquake hit. I checked my earthquake app to see if the recordings from the initial hit had come through. Nothing. This second earthquake didn’t do a lot but shook people up a little as a few of the hotel vases in the garden smashed and dust consumed the air. We were all by the beach and this wasn’t great if a tsunami hit which was now the current fear.
The hotel staff were communicating with officials in Bali and lead us to the back which leads to a football pitch (I’d say in the middle of the island). I didn’t know this until the newspapers had reported it the next few days but it was empty land with a few trees and everyone had gathered there until the next decision was made. In true British style, I walked my bike to the land. I got a lot of looks and it was so inconvenient but I had hired it and I was going to return it before I get told to pay for costs (you never know- even earthquakes aren’t exempt).
The locals had set up a mini emergency medical camp where dressings etc were offered to anyone who was injured. Volunteers from the medical background and local doctors tried to get the word out to bring anyone who needed attention to them. Torches kept us in limited light and everyone huddled together, mainly in fear. I was pretty relaxed throughout and people started to notice. I spoke to a couple who looked physically distressed and tried to comfort them with rational thought. They were in their mid-thirties and were from the UK but they were on the verge of tears. I knew it was a scary situation for everyone but if people were rubbing off on each other and panicking like this then no-one would think straight.
The couple asked me “are we going to die” (multiple times) and I realised that although they were a lot older than me and had each other, they were looking to ME for hope. I answered them in the best way possible - using facts. “You can’t die from shaking too much… think about it, in earthquakes the biggest cause of death is things falling on someone and do you see any buildings near us? The trees are few and we’re far away from them too”. This seemed to settle them as they nodded in agreement. “But what about the Tsunami?” We had been given a Tsunami warning and everyone was preparing for the worst. “We’re going to higher ground in a minute and either way it doesn’t hit straight away. You have a good 20 mins after an Earthquake has hit before the Tsunami hits and we’re somewhere in the middle plus the earthquake has to be at least a 7-magnitude to even trigger a Tsunami… so I think we’ll be ok”.
I wasn’t sure but I was praying that I was right and nothing worse could happen. As I was having my conversation with the couple, more and more people started listening in for reassurance. I think when I clocked there were at least 35 people now paying attention to me like hawks - everyone older. I thought it was bizarre but I guess my calm and rational approach made everyone believe that I was experienced with these kinds of things. The girlfriend asked me one more question as she had calmed down a lot; “but what happens if the ground opens up? Are we going to die?”. Honestly, I nearly laughed out loud. How can a grown woman be asking such questions? Saying that, in crazy situations you don’t often think straight and she genuinely wanted to know. I told her that yes, whilst the ground can split during an earthquake it usually just cracks a line and doesn’t separate the ground like that. It’s not like you couldn’t jump from one side to another and it’s highly unlikely that you’d fall into a big hole - which defiantly doesn’t fall into the earth’s crust!
A person shouted to me from the crowd, “how many earthquakes have you been in? You seem to know what you’re talking about!”. I told the truth and let everyone know that no, I wasn’t an expert but I’ve been doing my research and I have an app to tell me information after the earthquake. I told them that the only thing I had experienced was the Japan replica in the National History Museum when I was like 8. I couldn’t tell you why I was so calm but it’s a strength I’m known for. My approach had got everyone a little less worried. I had mentioned that we all had each other and that we were in contact with officials. My app went off to tell me about the big earthquake and my face dropped. Everyone asked what was up but I didn’t want to break the news especially after calming them down. My earthquake app told me that it was a Mag 7 (yes, the exact number I told everyone that is required to trigger a Tsunami) and it was shallow and near. No wonder we had such an impact but now I wasn’t so sure about this Tsunami. We had to get to higher ground just in case.
My Earthquake app was saying 7 magnitude but word from the officials were saying no Tsunami warning after a few back and fourths. The locals said to walk to the mountain and everyone started walking. I was skeptical and didn’t want to go. Until then I still believed the “mountain” was a mountain that had no path and you had to climb. I wasn’t trying to be hit on the way up but then I can’t be left here alone and we needed height… but then what if we die?
How many times have there been disasters where instructions have been given that are wrong. I wasn’t trying to follow the wrong advice by people who are just as clueless as me. You could be trained for any disaster but there’s no way to know what to do if it hits as each disaster is unique. I walked, reluctantly. If anything fell at least people could help me. I found a spot for my bike and hid it away. At least that way I’ll know where it is and no-one would steal it.
The “mountain” ended up being a hill… kinda. The good thing is it had steps and a path. Yes, rocks could still fall but it was a lot safer than I had first thought and didn’t take us too long to walk to the top. Once at the top, the real wait began. I found a spot and sat down. People were screaming and praying in different languages over and over again. This caused fear and everything was triggering. I realised that we would have to stay here all night and I didn’t have my portable charger or any cardigan or coat. I took my headscarf off and wrapped my shoulders. I used my dress and flipped it up to generate some warmth. Thankfully I had put on my cycling shorts. My signal had returned a bit but my battery was on less than 35% now and I didn’t know how long it would last. I hit up people in Bali to ask if there had been any information and was trying to get in contact with people back home to update me and to inform them of my whereabouts. From the top, all I could see was a dark island and all we could do was sit and wait it out. Hopefully, a helicopter would come and save us. Hopefully, people knew we were here.
A few hours went by and earthquakes had been hitting more regularly now. They weren’t crazy big but enough to feel the shake all those meters below us. I had no clue how much more damage was being done on ground level but if they weren’t stopping then there was no way I was attempting to go back anytime soon. A group of 5 English young people (around my age) were sitting near me and offered me a blanket they had grabbed from their hotel. They had run back to get covers and blankets and had considered going back but I told them to stay it wasn’t worth it.
One of them had a power bank and I had my cables so I managed to charge up my phone to around 80%. I didn’t know how long we were going to be there but I was one of the few people with signal and internet so I needed to keep it alive for as long as possible. Another young solo traveller from Italy asked me to contact her family back home from her as she had no signal and was scared too. One thing I can tell you from my experience on the mountain is that everyone came together to help. I saw mini lights and camps being set up at the top and people sharing covers and pillows. Many people locked hands and prayed together whilst the rest of us tried to sleep. At this point, I had accepted my fate and tried to sleep. There was nothing more I could have done and the tension had everyone on edge. I tried my best to sleep through the earthquakes whilst mentally reciting the rosary in my head. We were going to survive this and we were going to be just fine… I hoped.
That night I saw so many stars and two shooting stars. There was hope. The sky was clear and the temperature wasn’t too cold and no signs of rain. The only fear was the shake from each earthquake which had now increased to one every 20 mins or so. By the morning we had sat through at least 70 shakes and tbh I was just over it. I thanked God for his protection during the night and looked at the view. My situation wasn’t ideal but the sunset was beautiful. I just had to take in everything and really appreciate it.
My next plan was to gather my stuff, find my bike and cycle to my apartment. I had left my passport and valuables and after the horror stories I had heard from ceilings collapsing just as people had run to safety and others looting during the escapes, I just prayed my building was standing and that my things were still safe. I agreed to meet these Brits by the beach to get off but my first priority was my things. I found my bike after a good search but it wasn’t where I had left it. I started to panic because the walk was at least 40 minutes and I couldn’t risk that long on foot. I looked again and found it neatly chained away out of sight. I tried the code and BINGO! It worked! I remember sighing with relief knowing that someone had been kind enough to lock it instead of stealing it. There was hope.
On the cycle back I witnessed a LOT of disruption. Things were smashed, hot oil had been spilled, large cracks lined the floor, buildings had collapsed and the island was a state! As I got closer to the temple, I noticed that the whole top part had fallen into the street and caused the two walls to cave in. This was a building that was new and solid and I feared to know the death count in there. Imagine running to a place of worship for safety only for it to collapse. I was so thankful that I decided to stay on the mountain all night since this would have been my route home and in the darkness who knows if I would have been a casualty. A road or two later I arrived at my apartment. I wanted to be in and out as quickly as possible. Buildings and concrete walls now gave me anxiety.
My landlord was outside and he asked if I was ok. I returned the bike and a woman took it to lock it away. I have to laugh because I remember thinking “are you alright” but immediately after taking the bike the woman asked if I had paid (I had). Can you imagine? We’ve just been hit by earthquakes, people have died, I didn’t return last night and many people had abandoned their bikes and lost property BUT THIS BABE WANTS TO KNOW IF I PAID? Nah, these lot should have been grateful that they even got the bike back what kind of nonsense? I even felt to smash the bike because you can’t even check on me and ask if I’m ok first? Your first question is money when the ATMs don’t even work? ANYWAY…
I ran to my apartment. It was still standing. Phew. I didn’t know when another earthquake was going to hit but it was going to be soon. My room was a tip! EVERYTHING was scattered around the room. my clothes were everywhere, things had fallen off the shelf, the bed had moved and I had no idea how I was going to get things out.
I quickly ran around the room throwing all my stuff in one place then I went on my knees to start packing it away. Everything was going ok until another quake hit. It was only a magnitude 5 or so but this floor was marble and I FLEWWW across the room. I only had a little floor burn but I ran out of there before something fell. I knew that my apartment was strong (clearly) but after so many earthquakes, I wasn’t sure how vulnerable the foundation was. I left my bag and waited outside.
When I was sure it had stopped I ran back in, closed my bag and wondered if I had enough time to use the bathroom. I knew it was risky but I was desperate. Any pain in my knee was gone since the adrenaline had kicked in again. I ran to my bathroom and prayed that I wouldn’t die on the toilet (lol) and that there wouldn’t be so bad. I had come so far God couldn’t let me down like this.
After closing the building and handing back the keys I asked my landlord what he was planning to do. He said, “we’re all leaving. All of us. We're too scared to stay, were getting off the island right now”. Boy, that’s how you know it was bad. I gathered my things, wiped my knee (which hadn’t started bruising yet but was a little swollen) and walked back to the beach. My knee ended up being so bruised and swollen but I just told myself that I have the NHS and I’ll get it checked for free when I’m back. A little earthquake had bruised my bone from doing literally nothing so I was grateful that I was on the beach when the big one hit otherwise it could have easily been another story!
We were no longer civilised people. We were savages.
I realise this post is already pretty long but bear with me, it’s nearly finished. In a lot less detail, getting off the island was probably the most traumatic part. as I was approaching the beach people were screaming and crying people’s names, hugging bodies with pain in their voice and looking for missing people. It was harrowing to witness. There was nothing anyone could have done. Thousands and thousands of people were waiting on the shore for boats but no-one knew how we were getting off this island. The locals were taking boats off but they weren’t letting tourists on. Those with money were paying for boats but most didn’t have money and the prices were ridiculous. A helicopter came but it just circled us and watched us from above. Someone mentioned that we could get a helicopter can come but they were charging ONE THOUSAND POUNDS to get you off. Nah when I say everything was turning mad.
At one point all the locals had left and Police boats started coming. Ask me if they even cared about us? They came, TOOK THEIR PHONES OUT and filmed us. We didn’t need to be filmed, we needed a boat and safety. The girls I was with were starting to cry, we had been there for hours trying to be saved. That day it was the clearest and hottest day that week and nothing was shielding us from the sun. We had run up and down the beach to try and get on a boat with no luck and nothing to eat or drink (apart from the one bottle of water and orange that was looted for me) and now they were overwhelmed. Another earthquake had hit during our wait and I remember seeing the sand under the water move forward and backward. AS IN THE GROUND WAS MOVING UNDER THE WATER WHICH WAS STILL. It was a fascinating and scary site. I can’t quite explain how crazy it is to see the ground move under you like that.
To get off the island you had to jump on a boat but since we weren’t walking on a deck we had to climb onto it to get on. This was DIFFICULT and dangerous as the boats were high and hundreds of people were rushing at the same time. I took a top from my bag and soaked it in the sea to put on my head. I was going to find a way to get on a boat and I was going to try and stay cool until then. After over six hours I told everyone that we had to run for the boats and jump. The boys were going to jump on first, then we were going to throw them out bags and they were going to help lift us on.
This set the girls off again as the task sounded so hard and I was beginning to think we won’t make it. We had witnessed people throw on their bags and not get on, people falling off boats, getting kicked off boats and fights break out to get on. Boats that had good had been so heavy from people that most of us had to help push it offshore. We may have come out alive from the earthquake but if people didn’t stop jumping on together, maybeeee we could get onto the other side without drowning… were no longer civilised people. We were savages. The only way I could describe it all was “the Lord of the Flies in real life!” and everyone was dangerous now. It was every [wo]man for themselves and it was time to be selfish.
Once on the other side things weren't much better. The mainland had been hit worse so effectively we had to go through the point of damage to get out of danger. The problem was the drive was a good hour or two and it was getting dark. Drivers didn’t want to risk the drive so they had whacked the prices up by 200%. They were asking for dollars or any currency and asked for $10,000 between 10 of us to get a lift back towards the airport and mainland. Our nightmare had just got worse. There are two things that can happen during times of need: unity or exploitation. Unfortunately, we had been met with the latter. News reporters were now taking pictures of us and recording and I just wanted to go home and find food. It had now been a day and I was tired.
There are two things that can happen during times of need: unity or exploitation.
I told the others to look for other vans and we walked on since haggling wasn’t working. I saw a bus stop and I ran to it quickly. Luckily it was an official bus and was keeping the original price (around 15/20 pounds) and he had space for all of us. Instead of paying $500-1000 each to get back, we had secured the standard rate. Once on the bus, I kept praying that no earthquake would hit and that we stay safe. My next decision was whether I should stay in Lombok for a few nights until my flight or go straight to the airport. My family and loved ones were begging me to go back at least to Thailand or England and just forget Bali. As my brother pointed out “you only have one life and it’s too dangerous” people were genuinely concerned for my safety!
Before I go on I want to thank every one of you who were looking out for me, offered me money and asked me if I was ok - I appreciated it so much! I heard that flights were fully booked so I couldn’t rebook. It looked like I was stuck for a bit and I decided to assess my situation day by day. The earthquakes kept going for a few more days and by this point, I had developed quite serious PTSD. The vibrations from cars would make me think an earthquake had hit and everywhere I went I made sure I could run out quickly and knew where all the hills were and how to get there. I was triggered so bad that I couldn’t sleep properly… always sacred something worse would happen.
I did go on to enjoy Bali but I was always on edge. We were hit with multiple earthquakes again (magnitude 6 and under) but it took a few months once I had returned to the UK (three weeks later) for my PTSD to go away. Even to this day, dramatic shakes (maybe an underground tube or something) makes me fear an earthquake and I know many people still suffer the impacts and will never visit Indonesia again.
Fun fact though, just before I finish. Chrissy Teigan and John Legend were in Ubud at the time and had been there for a few weeks before. Crissy was also laughing at the situation on Twitter and they seemed to stay too so it kept me sane knowing I wasn’t the only one bantering the situation (even though I was hit worse). I will go again though. Bali needs to be explored more and when Lombok isn’t under attack, it is one of the most beautiful places ever. I’m not sure if I’ll go back in the next few years but it will see my return despite the chaos.
My top three tips for surviving an earthquake:
1) Stay in places that are built with proper foundations (not just from surface level) and stay on the ground floor if possible to make exiting quicker.
2) Know where the nearest (and furthest from water) high point is and mentally map how to get there quickly.
3) Take a portable charger and ALWAYS have your passport on you.
There is a lot more I could say about this time in my life but I won’t bore you further. Life was confusing and scary and even after I had reached Lombok there were further challenges to face. I pray no-one is ever in a serious earthquake but if you are my only advice is to stay calm and think with your head. That was my saving grace in this situation and it helped me recover quicker from the trauma.
If you got to the end - thank-you! I hope you enjoyed!
Liz x